7 Pieces You Should Swaggerjack From My Summer Wardrobe

We all love Summer, but we can all use a little help on keepin it clean and upgrading from beach-bum to summer sheek. Lined up I have 7 basic items that will bring your summer wardrobe to another level, without changing your basic style and look. Let the swaggerjacking begin:

Brass Collar Stays

One of my favorite summer looks is the khaki or dress short with an un-tucked slim fit oxford. It can be worn anywhere and really steps up your every day look without being awkwardly overdressed. However, the one thing that I see all too often (in winter too) is a poor collar line. Grab a set of brass collar stays, iron your collar (wrinkles at the bottom of your shirt are forgivable, on the collar is not), and stand out from the crowd.

This case is unreal, but you can get stays at Men's Warehouse for $10

Sperry Cloud Series Oxfords
I picked up a pair of these about 3 months ago now and they are unbelievable. They fit and walk like a boat shoe, with the upscale look of an oxford. Where them with or without socks, fabric pant, or my favorite, shorts (trust me on this, you will get a lot of compliments and will really stand out from the 50 people on the street still wearing Chuck Taylor's everyday.

Start simple with Brown or danger to my favorite Grey | $90, Sperry

Cognac or Walnut Dress Shoes

Summer means it's time to break out the Khaki pants and polo's, or if you are like me the Grey dress pants and brown oxfords. Walnut dress shoes will set you apart from every other Joe-Schmo in a set of dress pants and can be worn with almost any color pant (although a grey suit with cognac brogues is, in my mind, perfection). Check these brogued cap-toe oxfords from Allen-Edmonds

Allen-Edmonds Strand in Walnut Calf | $325 Allen-Edmonds

A Weekender Watch
Cheap. Easy to wear. Usually bright colors which gives you a bit of pop in your outfit without getting that dreadful "look at me" appearance. That and come winter, you really can't sport these. This Timex can be had for $40 and is the perfect addition to your watch collection.

Timex Fabric Weekender | $40. City Sports

A Weekender Bag

Summer hopefully means you are out and about, either enjoying the sun or traveling around the world. Somewhere between a back pack and airplane luggage sits what we sartorialists call  the weekender. It fits enough to pack for the beach, the club, and the morning after - without looking like you are going away for a month.

Fossil Max Duffle | $288, fossil.com

White Jeans

In case you spend all your time looking at the ground, let me be the first to tell you that white jeans (or yeans really if you are in my inner circle of friends) are in. Check out a few different ways to rock them here.

Many Looks. Same White Jeans. | $60, Zara

Boat Shoes.

While I am always happy to make a new friend, Colton J. Bozigian's most valuable addition to my life was introducing me to my new favorite time of year - Boat Shoe Season. Previous to meeting Colton, my mind was blurred in the spring by the arrival of not on Sun Dress Season, but also Cork Wedge Season (OK sometimes they are espadrilles, I don't care, chicks look amazing in them). Little did I know that come spring time men everywhere throw out all there socks and rock boats shoes like we are all meeting someplace secret to throw the world's greatest party on Richard Bramson's Yacht. I love the movement, and love the season, so get yourself a set of Sperry's and join the elite group known only, as men.

Sperry Topsider's | $75, Sperry

Still plenty of Summer to be had, get out there and let's bring Boston out of that top seed for "Worst dressed cities in America" (Clearly, they didn't interview myself and the other Sartorial Generals of Swag that call Boston home).

Swag On Summer Amigo's. Swag On.

Let's Talk Dress Shirts.

Alright lads, it's time we started knowing what we are buying instead of guessing.

1. The Collar Stripe: Fabric inside of the collar that determines the height.

2. The Collar: Pay attention to size here. If you're a small guy, avoid a large collar. Also plan your tie accordingly. A skinny tie won't look good with a large collar and vice versa. 

3 & 4. The Collar Point and Spread: Three basic styles: Point - the collar points are heading downward, typically more formal and Spread - the collar points or heading more towards the outside the first. Both of these types use collar stays - I recommend getting a bunch of copper ones - but the last time is a button point which has a smaller button to keep the collar down. 

5. The Front Center Placket: Standard dress shirts will just double up fabric here to firmly hold the buttons, better dress shirt it will be a separate piece of fabric with individual stitching throughout. 

6. The Pocket: Also a place where quality can be scene. Check the stitching, size, and placement. 

7. The Sleeve: Shirt sleeves should be longer than your jacket, about to the thumb. 

8. The Gauntlet Button: Makes it easier to roll your sleeves up. Don't buy shirts without them, and keep this button buttoned if your sleeves are down. 

9. The Cuff: Pay attention to size here as well, and keep it in relation to your body size. If you are new to the game and want to step up your style, get some French cuffs - which actually only determines they way the cuffs button, standard is on top of each other and french is against each other. You'll need cufflinks for this which on a side note, should match your tie and pocket square - French cuffed shirts are typically made with a white cuff and collar regardless of shirt color.

  10. The Yoke: Finer quality shirts will be in two-pieces so a tailor can adjust the shirt perfectly to your back and shoulders. More commonly this will be one piece. 

11. The Pleat: Just like pants, the pleat in the back of your shirt gives you more room for flexibility. Common on dress shirts of any caliber, but finer shirts won't have this. 

12. The Shirttail: Makes sure this is long enough to secure your tuck for the day. This is a key area to separate your formal shirts from casual ones - you shouldn't be able to wear your dress shirts untucked, and you should barely be able to tuck your casual shirts.

Other things you should look for is the blend of fabrics and button quality. Most common blends are: 35% cotton, 65% polyester = worst | 50% cotton, 50% polyster = average | 65% cotton, 35% polyester = better | 100% cotton = best. High quality shirts will also have Mother of Pearl buttons instead of plastic.

Knowledge is power. Pay attention to the details and Swag On.

The Perfect Dress Shoe: Band of Outsiders Classic Oxford

There's all kinds of winning going on here. But first a lesson. You see how the laces comes together instead of a V? That's what makes this shoe an Oxford and not a Derby. Secondly the brogue pattern is nothing shy of brilliant. Brogueing is the small holes around the shoe used to embellish the different pieces of the shoe; the mix of large and small pattern here really sets this shoe apart.

Note: If a shoe is brogued it is considered less formal and can be worn with various levels of business casual to jeans and a dress shirt to suits.

Now notice the construction. Clear separation of the top line, heel cap, upper, toe cap, and throat. This screams high quality. Lesser shoes with fake these lines.

Finally the toe cap and lift. The toe cap, if you don't know, is the line running horizontal across the front of the shoe. This one is brogued, perfectly, and just the right amount of size variation and pattern. The lift will give you a solid inch on your height, and give you a smoother stride.

These shoes are damn near perfect. They are $763 at oki-ni which I know, sounds like a lot if you are just starting out in your career. But shoes like these are rare and well worth the investment. Well cared for they will last 10-15 years ( a bargain at about $100 year with maintenance).

Don't go buying every $700 pair of oxfords you see, but if there are two places you should be spending your money to bump that swag up a few thousand points, one is at the tailor, and the other is on your feet.

Invest and Swag On.

What makes a shoe cost $375, and is it worth it.

Apologies for the long drought, a new job has had me working long hours but to get back in the swing of things I thought I would break down a question a lot of people have: "Why would I pay $300+ for dress shoes?"

Lets start from the beginning:

1. The Shape | If you look at a high quality dress shoe you will notice that it has a lot more curves than a cheap one. Cheap dress shoes are the same with (more or less) from front to back. A quality shoe will have a thinner & taller heel, hug the arches of your feet, spread back out to support the ball of your foot and come together at the toe in whatever form you are looking for. Standard oxford's are cap toe (extra piece of leather going across the shoe over your knuckle area).

2. Expensive dress shoes tend to be Oxfords if they have laces. Derby style (meaning the laces are attached to a separate piece on the shoe and do not come fully together) are less and less common in this middle range shoe. Double monk straps (two leather straps where laces should be) are also VERY popular right now and a solid way to set yourself apart.

Sid Mashburn Double Monks

3. Good shoe's are full grain leather, no synthetics or corrected grain leather. This also means they can last you a long time (6-10 years if cared for properly).

4. Look to the Shank (the piece runs the length of the shoe between the sole and the fabric). High quality shoes usually have wood here.

5. Check the sole. Rubber soles are great if you walk a lot but high quality shoes will have a separate leather sole so they can be cobbled multiple times as the years pass. (cheap shoes typically can't be cobbled and if you get them, the cobbler with use a cheap piece of plastic instead of leather.

6. Nails not glue. The sole of a truly great shoe will have nails.

Here's a pair that I plan on getting ASAP:

Allen Edmonds MacNeil Wingtip Brogues($315-$575):

Notice the shape, color (walnut, a personal favorite), the brogueing (perferations around the shoe), the well seperated and shaped sole, one piece leather upper (where the laces go) and of course the classic wingtip (V shape line) as the toe cap.

Shoe's should be an investment. There will be a blog coming up about the right price shoes for the occasion but a man can never have enough options on classic dress shoes. By far they are the most overlooked opportunity by men and is a very easy way to set yourself apart. They are also more likely than any other part of your wardrobe to withstand the test of time.

Sorry for the wait, more to come soon. Save your money. Buy some Oxfords. Swag On.

Pitti Uomo for This week in Swag

Pitti Uomo, a bi-annual mens trade show held in Florence, Italy this past week has been displaying nothing but fire. Here's some Swag from the streets.

The canvas back pack. In my opinion a must have.

Classic Khaki blazer, with the murderous combo of matching
tie and pocket square. White on red polka dots, definition of steez.
Oh yeah, light blues (dress shirt) are in this spring/summer too.

Huge fan of the everyday-blazer look over the v-neck.
Notice the pocket square? Plus 1,000 Swag points.

All-blue steez. The cuff is essential here. Coupled with a light belt
and a pop of colour in that pocket square. Plus 100 swag points for the pin.

Pictures were brought to you by Tommy Ton, a fashion photographer for GQ.

Swag On

Trends for the Everyday Man: The 5cm Cuff

So you're looking to step up your swag, and I've got just the thing. Almost every post so far I have stressed the importance of FIT, so if you don't have a tailor by now...get one. That doesn't mean you want to go slimming and hemming every piece in your wardrobe though. 

The 5cm cuff is not only fashionable but efficient. It breaks up the typically boring line between pant and shoe a lot like a belt breaks up pant and shirt. This example from a man I know solely as Antonksi is absolutely textbook.

His Tumblr is pretty steezy 

Things to be noted:

• He is wearing a dark wash jean with a light inner, always a solid choice for the 5cm cuff.
• The jeans are quality, you can tell by the stitching.
• The boots are also quality (again, the stitching as well as the layers in the heel.
• Wear the cuff falls is wear pants are supposed to fall on your shoes. Without the cuff these jeans would bunch and lose many swag points.
• The cuffs are very tight to the jean (here's a hint, he ironed them).
• The copper stitching in the pant is picked up in the lighter sole of the boots.

Now Antonski is no stranger to Swag, but you can easily pull this look off with what you have in your wardrobe. I'm not saying you have to bust out a ruler, but 5cm is a great rule of thumb and as you can see in the picture a great look.

Ingredients for success; Dark jeans, decent boot, dash of Swag, and a rough understanding of the metric system.

We'll have you swaggin' in no time.

Swag On