25 July 2011

Let's Talk Dress Shirts.

Alright lads, it's time we started knowing what we are buying instead of guessing.

1. The Collar Stripe: Fabric inside of the collar that determines the height.
2. The Collar: Pay attention to size here. If you're a small guy, avoid a large collar. Also plan your tie accordingly. A skinny tie won't look good with a large collar and vice versa. 
3 & 4. The Collar Point and Spread: Three basic styles: Point - the collar points are heading downward, typically more formal and Spread - the collar points or heading more towards the outside the first. Both of these types use collar stays - I recommend getting a bunch of copper ones - but the last time is a button point which has a smaller button to keep the collar down. 
5. The Front Center Placket: Standard dress shirts will just double up fabric here to firmly hold the buttons, better dress shirt it will be a separate piece of fabric with individual stitching throughout. 
6. The Pocket: Also a place where quality can be scene. Check the stitching, size, and placement. 
7. The Sleeve: Shirt sleeves should be longer than your jacket, about to the thumb. 
8. The Gauntlet Button: Makes it easier to roll your sleeves up. Don't buy shirts without them, and keep this button buttoned if your sleeves are down. 
9. The Cuff: Pay attention to size here as well, and keep it in relation to your body size. If you are new to the game and want to step up your style, get some French cuffs - which actually only determines they way the cuffs button, standard is on top of each other and french is against each other. You'll need cufflinks for this which on a side note, should match your tie and pocket square - French cuffed shirts are typically made with a white cuff and collar regardless of shirt color.
  10. The Yoke: Finer quality shirts will be in two-pieces so a tailor can adjust the shirt perfectly to your back and shoulders. More commonly this will be one piece. 
11. The Pleat: Just like pants, the pleat in the back of your shirt gives you more room for flexibility. Common on dress shirts of any caliber, but finer shirts won't have this. 
12. The Shirttail: Makes sure this is long enough to secure your tuck for the day. This is a key area to separate your formal shirts from casual ones - you shouldn't be able to wear your dress shirts untucked, and you should barely be able to tuck your casual shirts.

Other things you should look for is the blend of fabrics and button quality. Most common blends are: 35% cotton, 65% polyester = worst | 50% cotton, 50% polyster = average | 65% cotton, 35% polyester = better | 100% cotton = best. High quality shirts will also have Mother of Pearl buttons instead of plastic.

Knowledge is power. Pay attention to the details and Swag On.