18 July 2011

What makes a shoe cost $375, and is it worth it.

Apologies for the long drought, a new job has had me working long hours but to get back in the swing of things I thought I would break down a question a lot of people have: "Why would I pay $300+ for dress shoes?"



Lets start from the beginning:

1. The Shape | If you look at a high quality dress shoe you will notice that it has a lot more curves than a cheap one. Cheap dress shoes are the same with (more or less) from front to back. A quality shoe will have a thinner & taller heel, hug the arches of your feet, spread back out to support the ball of your foot and come together at the toe in whatever form you are looking for. Standard oxford's are cap toe (extra piece of leather going across the shoe over your knuckle area).

2. Expensive dress shoes tend to be Oxfords if they have laces. Derby style (meaning the laces are attached to a separate piece on the shoe and do not come fully together) are less and less common in this middle range shoe. Double monk straps (two leather straps where laces should be) are also VERY popular right now and a solid way to set yourself apart.


Sid Mashburn Double Monks

3. Good shoe's are full grain leather, no synthetics or corrected grain leather. This also means they can last you a long time (6-10 years if cared for properly).

4. Look to the Shank (the piece runs the length of the shoe between the sole and the fabric). High quality shoes usually have wood here.

5. Check the sole. Rubber soles are great if you walk a lot but high quality shoes will have a separate leather sole so they can be cobbled multiple times as the years pass. (cheap shoes typically can't be cobbled and if you get them, the cobbler with use a cheap piece of plastic instead of leather.

6. Nails not glue. The sole of a truly great shoe will have nails.

Here's a pair that I plan on getting ASAP:

Allen Edmonds MacNeil Wingtip Brogues($315-$575):



Notice the shape, color (walnut, a personal favorite), the brogueing (perferations around the shoe), the well seperated and shaped sole, one piece leather upper (where the laces go) and of course the classic wingtip (V shape line) as the toe cap.

Shoe's should be an investment. There will be a blog coming up about the right price shoes for the occasion but a man can never have enough options on classic dress shoes. By far they are the most overlooked opportunity by men and is a very easy way to set yourself apart. They are also more likely than any other part of your wardrobe to withstand the test of time.

Sorry for the wait, more to come soon. Save your money. Buy some Oxfords. Swag On.