Let's Talk Dress Shirts.

Alright lads, it's time we started knowing what we are buying instead of guessing.

1. The Collar Stripe: Fabric inside of the collar that determines the height.

2. The Collar: Pay attention to size here. If you're a small guy, avoid a large collar. Also plan your tie accordingly. A skinny tie won't look good with a large collar and vice versa. 

3 & 4. The Collar Point and Spread: Three basic styles: Point - the collar points are heading downward, typically more formal and Spread - the collar points or heading more towards the outside the first. Both of these types use collar stays - I recommend getting a bunch of copper ones - but the last time is a button point which has a smaller button to keep the collar down. 

5. The Front Center Placket: Standard dress shirts will just double up fabric here to firmly hold the buttons, better dress shirt it will be a separate piece of fabric with individual stitching throughout. 

6. The Pocket: Also a place where quality can be scene. Check the stitching, size, and placement. 

7. The Sleeve: Shirt sleeves should be longer than your jacket, about to the thumb. 

8. The Gauntlet Button: Makes it easier to roll your sleeves up. Don't buy shirts without them, and keep this button buttoned if your sleeves are down. 

9. The Cuff: Pay attention to size here as well, and keep it in relation to your body size. If you are new to the game and want to step up your style, get some French cuffs - which actually only determines they way the cuffs button, standard is on top of each other and french is against each other. You'll need cufflinks for this which on a side note, should match your tie and pocket square - French cuffed shirts are typically made with a white cuff and collar regardless of shirt color.

  10. The Yoke: Finer quality shirts will be in two-pieces so a tailor can adjust the shirt perfectly to your back and shoulders. More commonly this will be one piece. 

11. The Pleat: Just like pants, the pleat in the back of your shirt gives you more room for flexibility. Common on dress shirts of any caliber, but finer shirts won't have this. 

12. The Shirttail: Makes sure this is long enough to secure your tuck for the day. This is a key area to separate your formal shirts from casual ones - you shouldn't be able to wear your dress shirts untucked, and you should barely be able to tuck your casual shirts.

Other things you should look for is the blend of fabrics and button quality. Most common blends are: 35% cotton, 65% polyester = worst | 50% cotton, 50% polyster = average | 65% cotton, 35% polyester = better | 100% cotton = best. High quality shirts will also have Mother of Pearl buttons instead of plastic.

Knowledge is power. Pay attention to the details and Swag On.

The Perfect Dress Shoe: Band of Outsiders Classic Oxford

There's all kinds of winning going on here. But first a lesson. You see how the laces comes together instead of a V? That's what makes this shoe an Oxford and not a Derby. Secondly the brogue pattern is nothing shy of brilliant. Brogueing is the small holes around the shoe used to embellish the different pieces of the shoe; the mix of large and small pattern here really sets this shoe apart.

Note: If a shoe is brogued it is considered less formal and can be worn with various levels of business casual to jeans and a dress shirt to suits.

Now notice the construction. Clear separation of the top line, heel cap, upper, toe cap, and throat. This screams high quality. Lesser shoes with fake these lines.

Finally the toe cap and lift. The toe cap, if you don't know, is the line running horizontal across the front of the shoe. This one is brogued, perfectly, and just the right amount of size variation and pattern. The lift will give you a solid inch on your height, and give you a smoother stride.

These shoes are damn near perfect. They are $763 at oki-ni which I know, sounds like a lot if you are just starting out in your career. But shoes like these are rare and well worth the investment. Well cared for they will last 10-15 years ( a bargain at about $100 year with maintenance).

Don't go buying every $700 pair of oxfords you see, but if there are two places you should be spending your money to bump that swag up a few thousand points, one is at the tailor, and the other is on your feet.

Invest and Swag On.

What makes a shoe cost $375, and is it worth it.

Apologies for the long drought, a new job has had me working long hours but to get back in the swing of things I thought I would break down a question a lot of people have: "Why would I pay $300+ for dress shoes?"

Lets start from the beginning:

1. The Shape | If you look at a high quality dress shoe you will notice that it has a lot more curves than a cheap one. Cheap dress shoes are the same with (more or less) from front to back. A quality shoe will have a thinner & taller heel, hug the arches of your feet, spread back out to support the ball of your foot and come together at the toe in whatever form you are looking for. Standard oxford's are cap toe (extra piece of leather going across the shoe over your knuckle area).

2. Expensive dress shoes tend to be Oxfords if they have laces. Derby style (meaning the laces are attached to a separate piece on the shoe and do not come fully together) are less and less common in this middle range shoe. Double monk straps (two leather straps where laces should be) are also VERY popular right now and a solid way to set yourself apart.

Sid Mashburn Double Monks

3. Good shoe's are full grain leather, no synthetics or corrected grain leather. This also means they can last you a long time (6-10 years if cared for properly).

4. Look to the Shank (the piece runs the length of the shoe between the sole and the fabric). High quality shoes usually have wood here.

5. Check the sole. Rubber soles are great if you walk a lot but high quality shoes will have a separate leather sole so they can be cobbled multiple times as the years pass. (cheap shoes typically can't be cobbled and if you get them, the cobbler with use a cheap piece of plastic instead of leather.

6. Nails not glue. The sole of a truly great shoe will have nails.

Here's a pair that I plan on getting ASAP:

Allen Edmonds MacNeil Wingtip Brogues($315-$575):

Notice the shape, color (walnut, a personal favorite), the brogueing (perferations around the shoe), the well seperated and shaped sole, one piece leather upper (where the laces go) and of course the classic wingtip (V shape line) as the toe cap.

Shoe's should be an investment. There will be a blog coming up about the right price shoes for the occasion but a man can never have enough options on classic dress shoes. By far they are the most overlooked opportunity by men and is a very easy way to set yourself apart. They are also more likely than any other part of your wardrobe to withstand the test of time.

Sorry for the wait, more to come soon. Save your money. Buy some Oxfords. Swag On.