Must-have's and must-not's: Spring/Summer '12

Let's get right down to business. the Summer of ot'12 is going to be one for the record books, and there has never been a better time to step your thread game up. Here are 4 must-not and must-have's for this summer.

Must-not: Hue (aka colored) Jeans.

I know what some of you are thinking, "you know, the guy in the blue pants doesn't look that ridiculous," and while you may be right, you are not him. This is a great way to get yourself noticed...in a bad way. A good pair of brown or light grey chinos is all the color the bottom half of your wardrobe needs (Zara has some great sets) to look fresh.

You want to throw a little color down? Rock a pair of casual oxfords with colored laces

Must-have: An unstructured blazer

John Varvatos | Neiman Marcus, $450

An unstructured blazer is a great way to step up your spring wardrobe without looking overdressed. You can wear it with a graphic T or button-down and still look fresh. Lightweight, dressy but not flashy, comfortable, the unstructured blazer will always be in style and more importantly set you apart from every other bloke in a runners jacket or standard sweatshirt.

Don't buy the Varvatos, you aren't ready for it, but channel it, learn from it, and buy one for sub-$100.

Must-not: Original from Maine Sperry Top-siders

Authentic Made in Maine Top-sider | Sperry, $300

I love top-siders. I really do. But unless I noted these were $300 you would have assumed they were standard top-siders you can acquire for $85 in any color you like. I am sorry Sperry, but this does not get the swag on stamp.

Must-have: Saddle-oxfords

Gold Cup Oxford Saddle | Sperry, $160

Redemption! Sperry you never cease to amaze me. $160 should not be able to buy you this much swag and yet here we are, now let's figure out what we are looking at here. "Saddle" refers to the mid-shoe leather patch and gives the classic dress-oxford silhouette a much more casual feel. You can wear these with just about anything - shy of dress pants, these are not dress shoes - and you can even wear them with shorts. Blasphemy if you ask any standard businessman from the 90's, but then again you aren't an 90's businessman, so swag on and cuff up our jeans or bust out earth-toned shorts with this set of classic lined oxfords.

Until next time, Swag On.

The Summer of Simplicity (and Quality)

First of, it's good to be back. I missed you all. But let's get down to business here, men's fashion wait's for no one.

If you remember back in the Summer of '11 (great summer, by the way) we all got a little out of control. We bought a few too many items, we accessorized just a bit too much, and we wore garments that were just a little too far out of our swag-range.

Now I dig the intensity, but as a good friend of mine puts it, "we have to learn, and do better next time."

That being said I can't tell you how jazzed up I was when I saw the weeks forecast, but my initial reaction of digging into my closet for all the good stuff that you can't wear during the Winter was slowed by a recent gift I received.

On a 9-day stint in NYC I stumbled into Grahame Fowler Originals, a store that prefers hand made and vintage articles for men. I admit it is on the pricey side, but well worth it. In the store I found this from Chapman Bags, a UK based bag maker known for it's quality.

Chapman Bags: The Stanley | $250

The picture does not do the bag justice, you have to feel it and hold it to understand - much like the way you have to touch leather to tell the quality. But when it was purchased something peculiar happened. The shopkeep (who I assumed would be tickled at charging $250 for a canvas bag) wrapped it up with extra care, and when he gave it to me simply said, "I'm sure it will give you many years of good use."

Now that's just not something you hear everyday, but in a short sentence it can really alter what you are looking for in an article of clothing.

Now while I admit this bag was a gift, I have been in the market for a $100+ bag for quite some time now. Some quick maths will tell you this purchase was 150% over budget, it was well worth it. No bells. No whistlers. Simple, understated perfection that will easily compliment anything I choose to throw on that day.

We should make a promise to ourselves buy a little less, spend a little more, and I think we will all find ourselves with a cleaner, higher quality wardrobe that we will be happier with and last years, not months.

Now let's all go ballistic and look absolutely dangerous doing it. 2012 is going to be a great year.


-Swag On

Need a little more inspiration? Check out Boston local Jamison Aweau and The Anchor Division Blog

A little holiday swag | Monks, Bags, Watches

Christmas may be a time for families to come together, and celebrate the birth of...alright I already got bored and distracted. It's a time for family and swag. There isn't a better time to bust out your wildest get-up and see what the fam has to say - as we all know, it's

Christmas, and at Christmas you tell the truth. If you look like a fool, there's probably an aunt or uncle that is going to let you know. But around here we swag, and swag brings compliments and good tidings to all. Let's bring it down for this year's Holiday wish list.

The Invicta 2770 Military Chrono Lefty ($130, Amazon)

I love a good genuine leather watch strap with an oversized bezel. It's an easy way to make a statement for someone getting into the accessory game. Invicta is a great watch that has been going through some rough times lately, so you can pick these up all over the GILT and Rue La La websites for cheap. Do I like tacking advantage of quality? No. Do I know it's not easy to drop $500 on a risk accessory? Yes I do. So jump online and pick one up. I rock my watches under my wrist bone on my left hand so I buy left-handed watched so the crown won't dig into my wrist. Swag is about fit, no matter which hand is dominant.

Mercanti Fiorentini Double Monks ($140, DSW)

Looking to step your dress shoe game up? Look no further than a set of clean double monks from Mercanti Fiorentini. They fit true, look clean, and go with jeans as easily as they go with dress pants. Show these bad boys off and look like you are wearing Prada's for the price of Air Force Ones. Rock the 5cm cuff with these bad boys, they are built for looks, not for speed.

Terre D' Hermes Colgone ($76, Amazon)

This is some grown man shit. You know how you have been wearing the same cheap cologne your whole life (or you are like me and have a few different ones you switch up so no one catches on)? Well it's time to upgrade. A blend of atlas cedar, citrus, patchouli and bay rose means you will be smelling like a grown-ass man for days. Use lightly, 1-2 sprays will last you the day.

As for the bag, dont' bother looking for it. Been sold out for dayyys. But I will send some suggestions your way soon because if you live in a city you need some swag in your bag. And you don't live in a city, move here. It's worth it.

Happy Holidays from Swag On, 2012 is looking unbelievably steezy already.

Winter Steez | We Be Steady Bloggin'

It's been too long friends. These shorter and colder days are not only bad for morale but also our swag, as we revert to the one good winter jacket we own and the same hoodie we have been rockin' since grade school.

So let's boost morale and bring back the swag in the first post of the winter and bring our steez a few winter essentials.

Wolverine 1000 Mile Boots:

($340, Nordstrom but you can find them for less)

These boots are unreal. Warm. Built well. Waterproof. 1.5" lift and that stiching? That's the type of thread women faint over. A friend introduced me to a quote "He was beautiful, until I saw his shoes." Well that won't happen to you rocking these swagtacular boots during the winter months. Oh, and cuff your jeans with these. Trust me.

The Pea Coat:

Grey or Black, always clean over complicated.
I wear one from Sterlingwear of Boston (tailored)

I don't know how it happened but some of us made it past 2010 without owning one, I apologize for not bringing this up sooner but if you don't have a pea coat, buy one. Today. It the cleanest, warmest, easier way to bump up your swag and they will never go out of style. Buy one that is fitted like a suit (i.e. don't buy a large peacoat, but a 42R) and make sure it covers up all of the clothing on your upper body. Best way to rock it? mid length. Short is for fall and long is for, well honestly people who know what they are doing so lets not get ahead of ourselves.

Overused but underdone: Cardigan-over-the-oxford look

This, is Nickelson Wooster. Stalk him. Look at him. Be like him. He has more swag than most of the world combined and while you probably can't rock his boots, you can throw a nice shallow v-neck sweater over your regular oxford for a clean, work or bar appropriate look for the winter.

Bump up game. Texture, and layers

Simple is Better.

So this is not what you would call an accident. Simple. Effective. Layering. Pictured above you will find someone that has a watch, a tie, a pocket square, a vest, a ring, a textured belt, and a striped oxford on and he doesn't look overdone. Now here's the disclaimer: if you own all of these things (which I do) it does not mean you can just put them all on think you will look like this (I have tried, it doesn't work). But you can take elements from this, and also learn when you are out shopping to look for things that you know will go together and not just look good standalone. Some of my plainest shirts look best alone, and some of my most complex look best layered.

Winter is  the best time to test out your layer game, mostly because if you mess it up you can hide it pretty easily. I am not a huge fan of wearing blazers in the winter, but a decent textured sport coat is still a good go-to when you feel like making a scene. Winter, however, is about channeling sweaters and textures.There will be a post coming soon on perfecting this but for now, study, learn, and swag on.

There will be more posts coming soon, I just had to get you all started as I have missed you and hopefully you have missed me.

If you are fiending some extra swag, run on over to my Tumblr, We Were Making Good Time

-Swag On

7 Pieces You Should Swaggerjack From My Summer Wardrobe

We all love Summer, but we can all use a little help on keepin it clean and upgrading from beach-bum to summer sheek. Lined up I have 7 basic items that will bring your summer wardrobe to another level, without changing your basic style and look. Let the swaggerjacking begin:

Brass Collar Stays

One of my favorite summer looks is the khaki or dress short with an un-tucked slim fit oxford. It can be worn anywhere and really steps up your every day look without being awkwardly overdressed. However, the one thing that I see all too often (in winter too) is a poor collar line. Grab a set of brass collar stays, iron your collar (wrinkles at the bottom of your shirt are forgivable, on the collar is not), and stand out from the crowd.

This case is unreal, but you can get stays at Men's Warehouse for $10

Sperry Cloud Series Oxfords
I picked up a pair of these about 3 months ago now and they are unbelievable. They fit and walk like a boat shoe, with the upscale look of an oxford. Where them with or without socks, fabric pant, or my favorite, shorts (trust me on this, you will get a lot of compliments and will really stand out from the 50 people on the street still wearing Chuck Taylor's everyday.

Start simple with Brown or danger to my favorite Grey | $90, Sperry

Cognac or Walnut Dress Shoes

Summer means it's time to break out the Khaki pants and polo's, or if you are like me the Grey dress pants and brown oxfords. Walnut dress shoes will set you apart from every other Joe-Schmo in a set of dress pants and can be worn with almost any color pant (although a grey suit with cognac brogues is, in my mind, perfection). Check these brogued cap-toe oxfords from Allen-Edmonds

Allen-Edmonds Strand in Walnut Calf | $325 Allen-Edmonds

A Weekender Watch
Cheap. Easy to wear. Usually bright colors which gives you a bit of pop in your outfit without getting that dreadful "look at me" appearance. That and come winter, you really can't sport these. This Timex can be had for $40 and is the perfect addition to your watch collection.

Timex Fabric Weekender | $40. City Sports

A Weekender Bag

Summer hopefully means you are out and about, either enjoying the sun or traveling around the world. Somewhere between a back pack and airplane luggage sits what we sartorialists call  the weekender. It fits enough to pack for the beach, the club, and the morning after - without looking like you are going away for a month.

Fossil Max Duffle | $288, fossil.com

White Jeans

In case you spend all your time looking at the ground, let me be the first to tell you that white jeans (or yeans really if you are in my inner circle of friends) are in. Check out a few different ways to rock them here.

Many Looks. Same White Jeans. | $60, Zara

Boat Shoes.

While I am always happy to make a new friend, Colton J. Bozigian's most valuable addition to my life was introducing me to my new favorite time of year - Boat Shoe Season. Previous to meeting Colton, my mind was blurred in the spring by the arrival of not on Sun Dress Season, but also Cork Wedge Season (OK sometimes they are espadrilles, I don't care, chicks look amazing in them). Little did I know that come spring time men everywhere throw out all there socks and rock boats shoes like we are all meeting someplace secret to throw the world's greatest party on Richard Bramson's Yacht. I love the movement, and love the season, so get yourself a set of Sperry's and join the elite group known only, as men.

Sperry Topsider's | $75, Sperry

Still plenty of Summer to be had, get out there and let's bring Boston out of that top seed for "Worst dressed cities in America" (Clearly, they didn't interview myself and the other Sartorial Generals of Swag that call Boston home).

Swag On Summer Amigo's. Swag On.

Let's Talk Dress Shirts.

Alright lads, it's time we started knowing what we are buying instead of guessing.

1. The Collar Stripe: Fabric inside of the collar that determines the height.

2. The Collar: Pay attention to size here. If you're a small guy, avoid a large collar. Also plan your tie accordingly. A skinny tie won't look good with a large collar and vice versa. 

3 & 4. The Collar Point and Spread: Three basic styles: Point - the collar points are heading downward, typically more formal and Spread - the collar points or heading more towards the outside the first. Both of these types use collar stays - I recommend getting a bunch of copper ones - but the last time is a button point which has a smaller button to keep the collar down. 

5. The Front Center Placket: Standard dress shirts will just double up fabric here to firmly hold the buttons, better dress shirt it will be a separate piece of fabric with individual stitching throughout. 

6. The Pocket: Also a place where quality can be scene. Check the stitching, size, and placement. 

7. The Sleeve: Shirt sleeves should be longer than your jacket, about to the thumb. 

8. The Gauntlet Button: Makes it easier to roll your sleeves up. Don't buy shirts without them, and keep this button buttoned if your sleeves are down. 

9. The Cuff: Pay attention to size here as well, and keep it in relation to your body size. If you are new to the game and want to step up your style, get some French cuffs - which actually only determines they way the cuffs button, standard is on top of each other and french is against each other. You'll need cufflinks for this which on a side note, should match your tie and pocket square - French cuffed shirts are typically made with a white cuff and collar regardless of shirt color.

  10. The Yoke: Finer quality shirts will be in two-pieces so a tailor can adjust the shirt perfectly to your back and shoulders. More commonly this will be one piece. 

11. The Pleat: Just like pants, the pleat in the back of your shirt gives you more room for flexibility. Common on dress shirts of any caliber, but finer shirts won't have this. 

12. The Shirttail: Makes sure this is long enough to secure your tuck for the day. This is a key area to separate your formal shirts from casual ones - you shouldn't be able to wear your dress shirts untucked, and you should barely be able to tuck your casual shirts.

Other things you should look for is the blend of fabrics and button quality. Most common blends are: 35% cotton, 65% polyester = worst | 50% cotton, 50% polyster = average | 65% cotton, 35% polyester = better | 100% cotton = best. High quality shirts will also have Mother of Pearl buttons instead of plastic.

Knowledge is power. Pay attention to the details and Swag On.

The Perfect Dress Shoe: Band of Outsiders Classic Oxford

There's all kinds of winning going on here. But first a lesson. You see how the laces comes together instead of a V? That's what makes this shoe an Oxford and not a Derby. Secondly the brogue pattern is nothing shy of brilliant. Brogueing is the small holes around the shoe used to embellish the different pieces of the shoe; the mix of large and small pattern here really sets this shoe apart.

Note: If a shoe is brogued it is considered less formal and can be worn with various levels of business casual to jeans and a dress shirt to suits.

Now notice the construction. Clear separation of the top line, heel cap, upper, toe cap, and throat. This screams high quality. Lesser shoes with fake these lines.

Finally the toe cap and lift. The toe cap, if you don't know, is the line running horizontal across the front of the shoe. This one is brogued, perfectly, and just the right amount of size variation and pattern. The lift will give you a solid inch on your height, and give you a smoother stride.

These shoes are damn near perfect. They are $763 at oki-ni which I know, sounds like a lot if you are just starting out in your career. But shoes like these are rare and well worth the investment. Well cared for they will last 10-15 years ( a bargain at about $100 year with maintenance).

Don't go buying every $700 pair of oxfords you see, but if there are two places you should be spending your money to bump that swag up a few thousand points, one is at the tailor, and the other is on your feet.

Invest and Swag On.